WHERE TO FIND THE BEST LOCAL FOOD IN BUKHARA & KHIVA

If there’s one destination in Uzbekistan that deserves a spot on your travel itinerary, it’s Khiva. This enchanting walled city is located near the Turkmenistan border and is easily accessible via Urgench Airport or the new high-speed train network. I opted for an affordable flight from Tashkent to Urgench, stayed in Khiva for three nights, and then continued my journey by train to Bukhara before heading to Samarkand.

Khiva exudes a magical atmosphere reminiscent of destinations like Yazd in Iran or the desert towns of Oman. Encircled by imposing walls, its cobblestone streets wind through a maze of hidden gems, from intricately decorated mosques and mausoleums to towering minarets. The city’s bustling markets and everyday life blend seamlessly, creating one of the most captivating places you’ll ever experience.

During my visit, the global rise of Covid-19 meant I had the rare privilege of exploring Khiva almost entirely on my own—a traveler’s dream come true. While some of the city’s most renowned restaurants were closed, my taxi driver and hotel host went out of their way to recommend their favorite local eateries, ensuring I didn’t miss out on authentic flavors.

Below, I’ve shared the must-see attractions in Khiva, along with the best dining spots to check out.



Bukhara guide is after.

KHIVA MOON

This spot came highly recommended by my hotel owner, who insisted, “Go to Khiva Moon; it’s where we locals eat.” When I asked what to order, the response was simple yet confident: “Everything is delicious.” And they weren’t wrong.

PAKHLAVAN MAUSOLEUM

A truly dizzying complex of ornate intricacies, solemn tombs bathed in adornments, cool side-chambers exhuding reverence and a domed chamber coloured with gods paintbrush.

CAFE ZARAFSHON

Come here for the Mante.

OLD WALLS

As the sun sets, head out to the old walls and walk as far as your legs take you.

BUKHARA

CHINOR KEBAB

There are a few places with the same name, IMPOSTERS I SAY! But this is the real deal. Expect huge plates of meat, and not much else.

SOMSA

A takeaway window beside the map pin below, served the best Somsa in Uzbekistan.

AYVAN RESTAURANT

Opulent vibes, but decent food. Sit out on the balcony if the weather is suitable.

CHOK-BAKR CAFE

If you're visiting the Chor Bakr complex, then pop by here for lunch. Yes, it's meat meat meat, but it is Uzbekistan after all.

SILK ROAD TEAHOUSE

Expect to be thrown into a sea of rambling tourists, but the experience here is tea and sweets. Avoid the crowd and sit facing a wall if you must.

CHORBAKR COMPLEX

Not everyone makes it out here, but they should. It's truly magical.

OLD BUKHARA RESTAURANT

Yet another favourite of the tour-groups, but there are enough areas to escape and the food is solid.

DOMULLO TURSUNJON MADRASAH

It’s a somewhat rundown and ramshackle experience, and honestly, it’s only worth your while if you have time to spare. The real highlight, surprisingly, wasn’t the destination itself but the journey back to the Kalan Mosque.