ARTICLES

BY THE MOUTH

Image of a city guide banner for an article about eating and drinking in that particular place.

What can really be written about Istanbul that hasn't already been uttered inbetween gasps of amazement. The city that rivals Paris for scenery, Tbilisi for charm, Bangkok for dining options and Mexico City for vibe still manages to fly under most peoples radar. Perhaps it is the endless political cloud, or the fact that it's not really Europe and not really Asia at the same time. Whatever the reason, people need to start peeling back the layers of one of the most rewarding destinations on earth.


The Mouth's editor has spent countless months walking the streets hunting for food and oddities. From winters to summers and springs and autumns, all have been tackled in methodical marchings. Locals, magazines, blogs, books and tv shows ingested for clues on where to eat, then the slow march to try them all and categorise them for future returns or future avoidance.


Below is a list of the subsequent fruit of our labour. Taken over a 10 year span. Most of the restaurants are in Kadikoy, but that just happens to be our area of choice. A few on the European side, but we feel most at home in the Asian hemispheres, despite being seperated by a sliver of water.


Most of the restaurants we enjoy eating at make honest food. There are not many finer-dining style places on here because the one we actually visited some years ago no longer exists, and for us its more enjoyable to sit with regular people than those who care more about appearances than appetites.


In the end, you do you, and if you find something you like from this substantial list then please share it with your friends or foes, because word of mouth is something that cannot be bought.

CLICK ICON ABOVE FOR ALL LOCATIONS


CIYA SOFRASI

No visit to Istanbul would be complete without a visit to Musa Dağdeviren's restaurant in Kadikoy. A temple to disappearing recipes from the region, he religiously recreates forgotten recipes in this ever-expanding temple of pleasures. Our suggestion is to go to the counter where the pots are all on display, ask the chef for some recommendations, grab a few cold mezze from the counter behind and settle in for an unforgettable meal.

He has a Ciya Kebab shop opposite, but if you want kebabs then they are good, but there are better places in town. You come here for Sofrasi. Full stop!

GOOGLE MAPS

ADANA OCAKBASI

Home of bewildering grilled meats, this tiny shop in Nisantasi is legendary for a reason. Their spicy adana is melt-in-your-mouth tender, whilst keeping all it's delicious juices.

A classic for very good reason.

GOOGLE MAPS

ENGIN USTA

The battle of the döner is a fierce one. Every local has their one taste that reminds them of their youth, so no two Istanbulers will ever agree. Some claim Karadeniz the best, some Tatar Salim, and others still swear by this small shop near SALT. For our tastes, this has some deep lamb funk mixed in with beef, onions and speckles of tomato. The locals flock here for a reason, the meat is intensely flavoursome and hits the spot.

It might not be to everyones palette, but if you can handle lamby-funk, then hit this up.

GOOGLE MAPS

CAKMAK KAHVALTI SALONU

Pull up a chair, order the kaymak with wild honey, some small plates of olives and other oddities, and treat yourself to an experience you'll never forget. DO NOT miss the kaymak.

GOOGLE MAPS

MURAT THE FISHERMAN

The tourists crowd outside Balik Mehmet Usta, but the locals come here for a cheaper (and tastier) fish sandwich. Just beware of the seagulls, sit under the awning. If push comes to shove there is little seperating the two, but The Mouth prefers dining away from influencer tourists and therefore we're hitting Murat any day of the week.

GOOGLE MAPS

#THEMOUTHSCHOICE

PAK PIDE

Not known for wandering the streets of Eminonu too often, however if you are heading that way then this local gem is incomparable for their delicious Pide. The two owner/chefs are smiling beacons of welcomeness, and the food is sensational. By far the best Pide you'll find anywhere near downtown areas in Istanbul. Worth seeking out.


Thanks to Maksut Askar for the tip!

GOOGLE MAPS

PETRA TOPAGACI

Turkish coffee you'll find on every square inch of Istanbul, but properly prepared espresso using single origin beans or natural process / washed options can be tricky. This cute little shop in the trendy area of Nisantasi takes care of your needs, and provides a mellow soundtrack to read a book in.


They have another few branches, the one in Bebek is situated in a big old house and is feverishly popular.

GOOGLE MAPS

BURAK KURUFASULYE

Parked squarely in the suburb of Pendik, this local favourite offers amazing versions of Turkish classics. Their beans are a popular option, but everything including the soups (Gerdan çorbası) are exceptional.

GOOGLE MAPS

HALIL LAHMACUN

Our vote for the best lahmacun in town, and we tried a lot. Order, sprinkle with fresh parsley and sumac, squeeze some lemon juice on, roll it like a cigar and eat like a vandal.

GOOGLE MAPS

NATO LOKANTASI

Local chefs eat at Nato on their day off. If you need any more encouragement than that, you're a lost cause. This wildly popular lokantasi serves delicious food and is so full at lunchtimes you'll be forced to share tables with strangers. Everything is good, but go have a peek at the counter and choose what catches your eye.

GOOGLE MAPS

Photo for Istanbul Food

BADEM

Not strictly a vegetarian/vegan eatery, this popular neighborhood restaurant does excellent meat-free food if you get sick of chomping on kebabs. They have a tiny dining room upstairs with 2 tables, but predominantly seem to cater to locals popping in for a take-away lunch.

GOOGLE MAPS

DURUMCU EMMI

Few places in Istanbul do an Adana Kebab plate like Emmi. Succulent meat, bulgar, blistered tomato and herbs & onions. The outdoor seating area provides an airy place to shed some tears.

GOOGLE MAPS

BALAT TURSUCUSU

This bonafide legend will fill up a cup (or bag) of your favourite pickles, top it up with vinegar, a spicy dressing and a plastic fork for you to enjoy munching around Balat. 100% worth popping in for some excellent, excellent pickled goods.

GOOGLE MAPS

TARIHI KALKANOGLU PILAVCISI

When the pangs of home cooked food come haunting your soul, pull up a lonesome table and order a plate of pilav rice, beans and stewed beef. The portions are huge, the food is comforting, and the butter will bring the smile back to your face.

GOOGLE MAPS

STEREOGUN

Indie kids unite at this second floor bar (with rooftop area) that belts out Stereolab, Slowdive and My Bloody Valentine to accompany your beverages.

The best bar in town!

GOOGLE MAPS

TATAR SALIM

Doner meat of the highest order is offered at this corner restaurant a hairs breadth from Ciya Sofrasi. If you're not prepared to venture all the way to Besiktas to eat at Karadeniz, or Beyoglu for Engin Usta, then this is your next best option.

GOOGLE MAPS

MUJGAN YELDEGIRMENI

Breakfasts don't come bigger, or better in Istanbul. Grab one of the outside tables, show them this photo, and sit back and unbuckle your pants. Cancel plans for the rest of the day unless you intend to test hammocks and couches.

GOOGLE MAPS

KOFTECI ALI BABA

A favourite of Vogue Turkey editor Cemre Torun, this corner restaurant in Arnavutkoy, serves old school kofte and salads to a fiercely loyal crowd.

GOOGLE MAPS

TATBAK

Yet another legendary spot with a crispier than glass lahmacun, Tatbak has been putting smiles on local faces for decades. The prices are incredibly reasonable, the service is top, and the food is smashing. Their red lentil soup is one of the towns best!

GOOGLE MAPS

BARIS MANCO MUSEUM

The home of the Turkish rock legend has been turned into a museum, and despite some awfully questionable elements, its highly worth an afternoon noseying around.

Moda, where the house is located, is a great area to amble around.

GOOGLE MAPS

YANYALI

A lokantasi that specialises in Greek-Turkish food, perfect for a lunch before walking over to Moda. Their version of moussaka is excellent, as are most of the dishes on offer.

GOOGLE MAPS

BUTME EVI

Gozleme rolled in front of you, and apart from the spectacle, they are some of the best in town.

GOOGLE MAPS

VEGAN DUKKAN LOKANTA

Vegan options are slim if you venture out of Moda, but this 5 table restaurant offers tasty vegan fare, kombucha, homemade sugarless lemonade and mouthwatering desserts just a few blocks from Istiklal.

GOOGLE MAPS

BASTA! STREET FOOD BAR

If you are curious about the state of elevated street food in Istanbul (though we hate that word), then grab a durum from Basta. The quality of the ingredients make up for the slightly higher price-point, and the flavours are all on point.

GOOGLE MAPS

CORBA EVI

Despite being on one of the most hellish tourist streets in Istanbul, 99% of tourists seem to walk past this place out of fear of dark spaces. Inside is a treasure trove of delicious soups, and a bunch of outdoor seating to sip your soup and try to avoid eye-contact with the passing throngs.

GOOGLE MAPS

POPSTEL BALAT

Sitting by one of the tables on the rooftop and viewing the sights is one of lifes simple pleasures. They have a sister cafe about 300 meters away which is cosier if you're into tiles and old couches.

The service can be painstakingly slow, but the views more than buffer the aggravation.

GOOGLE MAPS

KARGA

Karga would be the next choice after Stereogun of the best bars in Kadikoy.

GOOGLE MAPS

SAYLA MANTI

Manti are the Turkish equivalent of small ravioli. Sayla is one of the places locals flock to in Kadikoy when presented with cravings that are impossible to shift. This is a walk on the wild side, locally speaking, as the flavours can be a bit challenging for tourists. However, if you really are intent on understanding Turkish food, then you almost have to come here and see what all the fuss is about.

GOOGLE MAPS

BANKO BURGER

Hipsters love a good burger, and Banko does the best in town. They have a few branches now, one in Moda and one with a large outdoor seating area in Nisantasi.

GOOGLE MAPS

COFFEE DEPARTMENT

A chain offering good cups of coffee if you're in a pinch, this branch is our favourite since it's a bit out of the way, has a quiet interior and a patio to sit on if the sun is bright. Basically there is less chance to sit next to throngs of tourists at this one as opposed to their Balat branch.

GOOGLE MAPS

VINYL BASEMENT

Downstairs in the basement is a hallway full of vinyl shops to tempt the most rabid collector to part with far too much cash.

GOOGLE MAPS

KARABATAK

If you happen to be stuck down in Karakoy, avoiding swarms of tourists, pop into this tranquil and hip coffee shop for an ice-coffee in the alleyway seating, or inside if the sun is a tad brash. Friendly service, good prices and vibes conducive to afternoon chill are just what the doctor ordered.

GOOGLE MAPS

Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.



Banner Image City Guide
By the mouth 07 Apr, 2024
Treading in the same dusty footprints as a million before you, no visit to Seville is complete without paying homage to the cradle of Tapas. From the mysterious ancient shops to the market stalls and local favourites, this guide will help you navigate the madness without losing your sanity.
Banner Image City Guide Naples
By the mouth 07 Apr, 2024
The ultimate guide to finding the best local restaurants in Naples. With over 5 months experience of hunting the best plates, The Mouth make it easy for you to avoid all the pitfalls and concentrate on stomach enlargement.
Hua Hin City Guide Main Banner
By the mouth 04 Apr, 2024
Your guide to finding the best local restaurants in Hua Hin. One of Thailands most popular destinations is also a difficult place to find authentic food due to the plethora of restaurants aimed at tourists. Read our guide to find where the local population eat, and where the best food is served.
Image for bangkok city guide
By the mouth 01 Apr, 2024
The Mouth's guide to finding Bangkoks hidden gems. Delving beneath the surface with over 20 years of experience, allow us to calm your nerves and take the guesswork out of eating.
Image Banner of Langkawi City Guide
By the mouth 26 Mar, 2024
Not all island food is worthless and overpriced. Follow in the steps of The Mouth's editor as he ran ragged and ate himself to death on Malaysia's tax-free paradise.

Contact Us

Share by: