Simplicity in it's most wonderful form is a freshly cooked Pizza Margherita from a blistering hot oven in Napoli. Presiding over the oven should be a mix of young trainees and an old maestro informing them when to turn, raise and "kiss the top", and eject the cooking pies. Dough, tomato sauce, mozzarella, sometimes some oil, sometimes some basil. That's it. You'd be right in thinking there couldn't be much difference between the top 1-100 pizzeria's in Naples, since so many of them abide by the rules of VERACE using only specific flour, cheese and sauce, but you'd be wrong.

The differences are not minute, they are massive.

From oven temperature, to amount of tomato sauce, sweetness, acidity or tartness of the tomatoes, the amount of cheese, the kind of cheese, the size of the pieces, if they were properly drained or dried, the time of day, the experience or impatience of the chef, the general mood in the city if Napoli won a football game, all these things come into play when making the perfect pizza. Having spent three months in the wonderful city, and eaten over 30 pizza's, I feel I have a pretty good grasp of what I at least like, whether you agree or not is not my problem.

WHAT AM I LOOKING FOR?

To dive a little deeper into what I look for in a Neopolitan pizza (Yes Americans, this isn't a Dave Portnoy crispy crisp or thinny thin), I fully accept that most pizzas in Naples have a crepe-like base, suitable for knife and fork (or the Napoli-fold), a sauce that is usually just San Marzano tomatoes, salt. Sometimes oil, sometimes basil. Fresh mozarella whether that be buffalo or not, some places use drier cheese (my preference), whilst others break off fresh cheese straight from it's packaging and end up with a pool of watery leakage on top of the pizza. Some cook it until it resembles a paler shade of light brown and toss it on the plate, others wait until its decently leopard spotted underneath, and some still lift the whole pie on the peel and hold it up to the top of the oven for the last few seconds to "Kiss" the pizza with scorching hot love.

A small seemingly insignificant detail I'll add here, is why many pizza-lovers check the bottom of the pizza before eating it, is:

A. To see if there is good leoparding (spots).
B. To see if the pizzaiolo used too much flour whilst shaping and the bottom is black from burnt flour and not from nicely cooked dough. Big difference in the end flavour.

C. Apart from judging by the weight (which is tricky if it's served on a plate), you can lift the slice and see how thin the pizza is, or check the texture of the dough.

My ideal pizza has a thin base that is not soggy but holds its shape, a thin layer of sauce that is not too sweet and not too salty and not too pureed, a smattering of mozzarella that has been drained properly and annoints the pizza without smothering it completely. I like a few fresh basil on top, and am not super fussy about whether they put it on before or after, though if pushed I'd say after. Olive oil is optional, and as you'll see below some places drown the pizza in it which I find unappealing, but a soft splatter here and there is totally ok. And after that caveat to defend my choices, we reach the important part:

Laid out below is a list of all 31 pizzeria's, photographs of the pizza from above and below, and a short explanation as to what I thought. In the true spirit of anticipation, the worst shall be first, and if you want to avoid reading a long diatribe, just scroll to the bottom to find out which one reigned supreme. The journey was hard on my stomach, piling on kilo's even after walking miles per day, but it was worth it. The difference between the best one to the worst was gargantuan. Almost like comparing a canned mushroom to a freshly picked one. However, the differences between the top 5-10 were minor, and it came down to the age-old principal of "Which one would I eat again?".

This was the guiding light behind all of my escapades and the reason the one that won, won.

Regardless of the victor, the top ten are all worthy of immense adoration, and go to great lengths to produce exceptional pizza's. Some of them are made in raggedy humble hole-in-the-walls, some in palatial settings for posh dates, and some still hidden cellars in strange neighborhoods. What all of them have in common was first and foremost, the dough. Secondly the sauce, and third the cheese. A bonus was added if the location or personel were memorable, but let's get one thing straight: The most important thing, always, is the food.

And thus we begin, a tale of thirty pies, laid out in constructed sentences with photographs to match:

P.s. The take-away pizza's were eaten immediately right outside, they did not travel and get soggy. Some of the pizzas were eaten during the pandemic, and therefore we didn't always have the luxurious option of "dine-in".

P.p.s. This article could never have seen the light of day without the expert tips from the Pizza Master himself: TanzenVsPizza and the Youtube Pizza Lord. Vito Iacopelli. Grazie Mille.

CLICK THE ICON BELOW FOR A FULL MAP OF ALL THE LOCATIONS

STARTING WITH THE WORST, FIRST:

PIZZERIA PORT ALBA

Being known as one of the oldest Pizzeria's in Naples means Port Alba enjoys a continuous stream of new clueless tourists to it's doors every year. After sampling the diabolical standard of pizza at this famous shop, we can only assume without the tourists it would have shut a long time ago. The crust is textured like dough that has not been left to ferment at all, it manages to be burnt and undercooked at the same time. The amount of sauce is quite literally a soup-a-thon, and it also feels like it's been thinned out with water. There is nothing redeemable at all about this pizza. Avoid at all costs.

PIZZERIA TRIANON

Yet another pizzeria that fancies itself as a "Must Eat" in Naples, sadly enough it occupies enough webspace in the top tiers of Trip(un)advisor to also welcome new guests to it's sordid doors each day. We succumbed to curiosity and went there towards the end of our Naples Pizza Pilgrimage, and frankly the anticipation dissipated as quickly as a scooter down the alleys of Spagnoli. The pizza was the geasiest thus far (I know, I know, EVOO is not "Grease"). Dripping with olive oil as though it was hiding something occult beneath. Nothing could save this pizza, it felt like a oil change for your insides.

PIZZERIA PISCOPO

A quintessential Napoli shopfront, helmed by disinterested punters, as authentic as you'll get in terms of sneers and indifference, but sadly the pizza was doughy and unspectacular. Maybe they should channel some of the cocky attitute into making better pizza. Just sayin.

PIZZERIA LA CENTENARIA

A few pizzeria's in Naples mix mozzarella with smoked provola. It adds a different taste to the pizza, and it's one that doesn't sit right with me. I much prefer the cleaner taste of Flor di Latte or Buffalo Mozzarella, as I feel the provola overpowers the other flavours. This was such a pizza, and not only did the cheese add offending tones, but the crust was heavy, doughy and blonde.

PRIGGIOBO

This achingly charming haunt will fill your soul with as much good vibes as it can handle. The walls have spied on conversations for decades, and by the looks of things so have the waiters. Not one of them seems under 70. However, on the flip side, the pizza was underdone for my liking and had a raw texture rather than a well proofed and baked chew. The sauce and cheese was also rather bland.

It was not a great pizza by any standards, but the atmosphere is intoxicating.

SORBILLO

I realise there is a certain amount of scandalous entitlement to place such a famous pizzeria so low on the totem pole, but by golly these guys have pulled the wool over all of your eyes. Mediocrity is a compliment. This behemoth of a pizza restaurant heaves from an incessant tide of idiotic tourists standing in line for the most bland, boring pizza in Naples. Ok, it is not quite THAT bad, but there is very little to be excited about. The base is the crepe-like version with zero salt, the sauce is insipid, the cheese too remains rather tasteless, and the whole operation just smells of money making.

Perhaps in the beginning there was a pizza-lover lurking behind all those accolades, but the cataclismic fame has managed to turn attentions elsewhere.

PIZZERIA VESI

Purveyors of extremely salty tomato sauce, and we suspect a mixture of mozzarella and provola, due to the noticeable smokey taste. While this is not necessarily a bad thing, it just didn't sit high upon the throne of dough worship and adulation.

PIZZERIA DELL'ANGELO

Round the corner from the majestic little temple of Ragu, Tandem, this pizzeria serves tourists from open til close. Whilst nobody eating there is being cheated out of a decent tasting pizza, there is nothing here that makes it worth trying over anything further down in this list.

LOMBARDI

Suffering a similar fate to Dell'Angelo, Lombardi is a crowd favourite in the partition between Rione Sanita and Centro Historico. Since we spent most of our time in Sanita, and availed the immensely good pizzas there regularly, this just felt a little disappointing to be honest. There was absolutely nothing wrong with it, and any first-timer to Napoli who ate here would go home a happy camper, but when you dig deep into the trenches, you uncover the highs and the lows and the middle-of-the-roads.

50 KALO

Home to the hordes of sunglass wearing people who like to be seen (and herded), the outdoor seating area at 50 Kalo can feel a bit intimidating. Entering as a solemly dressed man of jeans and t-shirt repute, garners enough disapproving looks to hurry you to your table and hiding behind the menus. The pizza here is similar to Sorbillo in it's crepe-casing, however it outshines its famous competitor because there is far more love and attention spent on balancing the sauce and cheese ratio here. It's the better of the two, but it's far from the top end of the graph.

GIULIANO

Hopes were sky high walking into this popular small pizzeria at a road crossing, the ingredients were all there for a raucous feast: Old men in the kitchen, ancient ovens, lines of punters. Whilst there was nothing intrinsically wrong with this pizza, it was just a bit "Extra". The sauce was a saline beast, the dough was a tad floppy due to the excess ratio of cheese and sauce competing for your affections. If they held back about 30% on all the toppings, then this could be further up the list.

OLIO E POMODORO

Up in the shifting scenes of Vomero, where the rich waft by on wafers of expensive perfumes, lies this popular pizza joint. Another recipient of a middle road pass, where everything was quite alright, but nothing was exceptional. If you happen to be in those circles, then there are better places to try. If you accidentally end up here, well, life could be worse.

DONNA SOFIA

Strategically positioned on the pedestrian thoroughfare between the dangerous streets of Spagnoli and the marbled decadence of Chaia, Donna Sofia boasts grubby pizzaiolo's, shabby interiors, outdoor seating and marginally better pizza than the places directly above.

DAL PRESIDENTE

There is a school of thought in Naples that pairs Dal Presidente against the nearby Di Matteo. For some reason the rivalry always comes up in crowded bars, and no two people can agree which is better. If you haven't guessed already, the fact that Di Matteo hasn't made an entrance means we thought it was better than Dal Presidente. Unfortunately the sauce was too heavily splodged on, and the bottom was cooked unevenly.

A rush job, as some might say.

OLIVA

Oliva and Concettina ai tre Santi are family members who moved apart (not geographically that far apart, mind you), and sling out their idea of a great Neopolitan Pizza. The one at Oliva has great characteristics, an above average crust and fairly good sauce, but they just don't match up to the OG relatives a few blocks away.

DA MICHELE

You can huff-cry-rant all you like but this restaurant was handed a generational lifeline when little old Julia Roberts ate here in the dismal hogwash film of the same name. Hollywood ruinations aside, the pizza is spectacularly average. Solid, decent crust, smattering of sauce, plop of (way too) wet cheese, hurled out at record speed so they can accommodate the thousand other arrivals fresh from Bali after a wellness week, aching for some deep carb action to re-align their chakras after the flight.

400 GRADI

Cult status pizzerias are not THAT plentiful in Napoli, since the pretenders get exposed rather quickly and brushed aside. 400 Gradi is definitely considered one of the OG spots to hit on your Flour-Itinerary, but for us its one that could be left out if pressed for time. Sure the pizza is good, it's cooked well, the location is dodgy and on a corner you could get whacked, but there was something missing when we tore it apart. Some special touch or sprinkle of salt. Something was just missing.

BRANDI

No true discussion can be had about pizza and not mention Brandi. Commonly accepted as the birthplace of Neopolitan Pizza, the temptation to skip it based purely on reputation was strong. However, sometimes places have a reputation for a reason, and Brandi is one of those. Fiercely friendly chefs, a price to please any wallet, and a pizza that hit all the right notes despite a borderline scorched undercarriage.

IMPERATORE 1906

A simple culprit of an overly acidic/tart sauce lowers the overall praise for this stallwart of yeast influence.

LA TAVERNA DI TOTO

There is something to be said about an oven that is constantly stoked by hundreds of orders. Regardless of the quality of the ingredients, its going to have that amazing charred kiss of extreme heat. Taverna di Toto, a small unnassuming cellar in Rione Sanita, benefits from the oven being scorchingly hot, and the fact that they actually know how to make pizzas and use quality ingredients. This is a little treasure.

TAVERNA LUCIANA

Clinging to the peripheries of Rione Sanita and where it begins to resemble Materdei, this local pasta and pizza restaurant creates an excellent version of Neopolitan Pizza. Their triumph is in the "cornicione" that is both well risen, fluffy and crunchy at the same time. A true sign of pizza mastery.

DI MATTEO

A current feature in our regular interviews with Napoli locals when quizzed on their favourite place, Di Matteo makes a thin, not too flabby, all-round great pizza. The only slight gripe is their sauce, like Imperatore 1906, it just eats a tad sour.

However, we fully understand this is a nostalgia play and most locals would have been coming here since childhood, and we can only say: lucky children.

PIZZERIA PELLONE

Any old haunt of Bourdain is fine with us, and Pellone is the quintessential pizzeria in town. Nestled a few blocks away from the central station, in streets of shady inhabitants, this grand old pizza parlour reeks of history. Waiters guide you to a table, often shared with strangers due to space issues, the pizzas here are huge, delicious and cheap. If you're on the hunt for the best pizza in Napoli, then you have to pay Pellone a visit, show your respect, and use this pizza as a measuring stick against the rest.

ANTICA BORGO AI VERGINI

Bonafide gem of Sanita. Locals creep in here looking over their shoulders, praying that it doesn't succumb to the same fate as many others in this area, and suddenly get discovered by a Tiktok streamer or guide book.

STARITA

One of the only pizzerias open on Sundays, when most others are shut for family affairs, this monster of a legend in Materdei is 100% worthy of all the accolades. It might not be in the top 3, but it deserves to be on any itinerary of joy that you may have.

PALAZZO PETRUCCI

Eyebrows may be raised that this pizza has made it this high up the list, but despite its modern vibe and date-night location, this pizza is a corker. Perfectly cooked crust, great ratio of cheese-sauce, fresh basil scattered ontop and a serious kiss from the dome of the oven.

A'QUARTRIAN

In the end, all that really matters is the pizza right? Well, yes. But sometimes, the characters behind the creation are almost as important. This is the case for A'Quartrian. The chefs all look like they've spent time behind bars, the restaurant is a tiny corner and a tiny porch amidst the insanity of Spagnoli. The pizza, however, is as honest as you'll find in Naples. Simply made, no frills, no bullshit, no polish. Ingredients thrown together as fast as lightning, into the oven, out when its ready, and you can taste the passion and the danger. This is another place to eat at to be able to balance out your overall impressions.

You need extremes to find your lane.

ANTICA PIZZERIA DEL BORGO OREFICI

The outlyer on the list. Thanks to the amazing advice from Italian pizza maniac TanzenvsPizza, we managed to catch the family fresh from their vacation, tending to the tables with dropped shoulders. What makes this pizza exceptional, is the sauce. The natural sweetness and balance of this sauce was the best we found in Napoli. Period. In terms of the crust, its a little different, more biscuit-textured and a bit crispier (Hello Portnoy!), but altogether, when we think back to our four month pizza odyssey in this magnificent city, we cannot help but pause and smile when thinking of Del Borgo.

AL 22

When lines are too long at our favourite pizzeria in Naples (No spoilers), we head over here. The dough is thicker, and they do love their oil, but this is a top three pizza in town. Immensely satisfying tomato sauce, salty yes but so flavoursome, great cheese ratio, great cook on the dough. Even with the dough being a tad on the heavy side, the flavours here will keep you satisfied in the face of disappointment at waiting times next door.

CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI

Be prepared to wait if you go at peak times, but this neighborhood favourite in Rione Sanita is our second favourite pizza in town. Exceptionally perfect crust, great tomato sauce, great cheese, basil, tiny splash of oil, this tastes of love and passion and intense heat. They also serve other dishes than pizza and have a lovely back garden to sit and eat in if the weather is cheery.

After you've stuffed yourself beyond reason, head over the road to Poppella and eat a Fiocco di Neve with a cup of coffee to complete the orgy.

DA ATTILIO

Perfection. Nothing more, nothing less. The perfect amount of sauce. The perfect amount of cheese. The intense intense kiss of the dome. Every element of this pizza is perfection. The ingredients compliment each other perfectly, nothing is amiss. There is really nothing more to say.

We personally would avoid the star-shaped ricotta filled pizzas they offer and head straight for the Margherita, but people will disobey orders and then leave snarky comments; its the game, we get it.

Jokes aside, if you're only staying in Naples for one day, this is the place you want to eat at. This is the pizza you need in your life. This is a miracle of simplicity. There is no opponent, it reigns supreme.

To try and thread together an absorbing amount of content and photographs, all dedicated to the humble pizza, seems redundant. If we could offer only one piece of advice, it would be to choose carefully if you are spending only a day or two in Napoli. If so, the wait times for the best places are worth it. If you have a bit more room to play with, then consider hitting some of the spots in Sanita or Materdei to get a more local feel for the pizza scene. If you're an Anthony Bourdain fanatic, hit Pellone. If you are feeling super adventurous, stay a month and try them all.

For the sake of your cholesterol and waistline, we wouldn't recommend anyone to follow in our footsteps, it was a dip into insanity, but one that felt right at the time. Most importantly, if you are heading to Napoli, just bring a good pair of shoes and walk-walk-walk your way to understand this mystifying and magnificent place.

Buon Appetito!

Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.