CITY GUIDE : SAMARKAND
PLOV LOWS AND SOMSA HIGHS
A city of dizzying architectural wonders that people flock to from four corners of the globe, yet not internationally accepted as a food destination. Perhaps rightly so. Uzbek cuisine is about piling on some pounds to struggle on horseback through rough terrain whilst maintaining enough strenght to deal with the unseen obstacle of destiny. It's not nuanced or dainty, it's heavy and hearty.
Whilst we tire of the taste after a couple of days, there are a few restaurants in Samarkand that can appease your demanding palate for something above average. Take the time to research your own, but if you want a cheat code then just hit these places up as they've all been vetoed by us and we get our tips from the best sources, locals.
For a full link of all the places on google maps, click the icon below:
IKROM SASHLIK
Being served lamb kebabs from someone who looks like he moonlights as a Bond villain is hardly the worst place to start your Uzbek adventure.
It's probably some of the best meat you'll eat anywhere in the country.
ULFATLAR OSH
Whilst plov may not be the most exciting dish on earth, at least this neighborhood joint makes the best version we tried. It's less greasy/fatty than most other spots.
KOKANDSKAYA SOMSA
Somsa is one of the few culinary joys in these regions, and Kokandskaya do a dynamite version. Find this building, walk through, into the garden and out back is a small dining room where you can shove crumbly, flaky pastries into your mouth without a care in the world.
PLATAN
Platan does all the usual Uzbek dishes a little bit better than all the other spots do.
SAMARKAND RESTAURANT
Nowhere else in town can you eat decent food and get disturbed by a wild wedding party in the next room in the space of five minutes.
ART CAFE NORGIS
A peaceful balcony to drink your tea and stare at the mosque in the distance. If you've been pottering around Siab Bazaar, then this is a short stroll away to take the ache off your thighs.
SAMARKAND TRAIN STATION
Behold the monstrous majesty of Samarkand train station. Worth a few minutes of your busy schedule to arrive early and have a gawk at this architectural oddity.
SIAB BAZAAR
Peruse the vegetal and carnivorous display of local delights.
SHAH-I-ZINDA
The Mouth leaves the tourist sights to the professionals, but in this case we have a little hack to offer. If the Shah-I-Zinda is closed or the entrance fee offends you, then pop next door into the cemetery, head up the hill, cross over to your left and you'll find plenty of perfect photo opportunities and even a small back entrance to get to the site for "free".
Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.
