CITY GUIDE : KUALA LUMPUR

THE WARUNG BABU CHRONICLES

Bangkok seems to get most of the attention when it comes to South East Asian food destinations, and rightly so. It beams out endless rainbows of choices to placate even the most stubborn eater. However, a few hundred miles south over the border lies the gazumping endless shopping mall construction of Kuala Lumpur. Admittedly, not the prettiest of Asia's cities, but one that needs a bit of time to fully appreciate.

What it lacks in architectural wonders, it makes up for in stomach divinations. The three cultures of Malay, Chinese and Indian set the foundations for traditional favourites, but also the chances for fusion (in the best kind of way).

The Mouth have not only been regular visitors to Malaysia for over 2 decades, but have spent a culmination of over a year hunting down the best places to eat local food. With that dedication comes a whole host of bad meals, but luckily for us, in KL even the mediocre meals are still pretty decent. We personally visited hundreds of places, so if your favourite didn't make the list the chances are:

A. We went there and personally didn't think it deserved a spot.

B. We haven't heard of it, yet, (drop us a line).

C. It's so good that we kept it to ourselves.

For full transparency, our preference in Malaysia is Chinese and Indian. Malay dishes do have their place, but tend to eat quite sweet, a flavour we're not that keen on. Below is a comprehensive list of restaurants we thoroughly think deserve your patronage, and have been tested multiple times over the years.

As is the case worldwide after the pandemic, standards have slipped and consistency has become even harder to nail. Therefore, take all of these tips with a pinch of sugar, but by all means give them a good try.

Makan!

p.s. For a full link of all the places on google maps, click the icon below:

WONG MEI KEE

Pork belly of supernatural stature. We have waited almost 2 hours to get our gluttinous fingers on a plate of delectable pig sacrifice, and it was worth every sweating second. Their charsui is not as successful (our humble opinion), but the pork belly is worth hijacking a plane for.

NASI KAHWIN HARI-HARI

What started as this humble roadside stall, has now upgraded to a brick & mortar building down the road, but the flavours remain the same. Traditional Malaysian wedding food is served here in all it's glory. The dishes are all delicious, but pay attention to Ayam Rose (the spicier of the offerings), the black beef (on the sweet side but tasty) and the lamb shank. All the food is a touch on the sugary side, but sadly this is a local taste issue, but it's some of the best Malay food you'll find downtown.

ITIK SALAI MASTHAR

A good 30 minute drive outside of central KL lies this unnassuming open-air food court in the middle of nowhere next to a mosque. The dish you're here to eat is the smoked duck curry (Masak Lemak Cili Padi). A monumentally rich, coconut flavoured curry soup with pieces of smoked duck adding a delightful depth. Our tip is to get the duck and the beef version and compare them since they are slightly different. The beef is more of a beef-jerky texture, the duck is not plentiful on the meat but superbly delivers on flavour.

For a bit of a deeper dive on this style of curry, read the article written by Mark Wiens who ate this dish here a couple of years ago. As is the case with many spots in KL, consistency can be problematic so for a period Jang Salai was our favourite for this style of curry, but they suffered from over-popularity and now we are firmly back with Itik Salai Masthar as our spot to hit.

HAI KAH LANG

Come here for the fish head noodle soup. Super addictive. If it happens to be raining, even better. Comforting vibes in a bowl.

KAYRA KERALAN CUISINE

Words defy how delicious the food at Kayra is. It's on the higher end of the financial spectrum by the standards of the rest of this guide, but well worth the extra splurge. Call ahead to reserve a table, even more so now that they were added to the Michelin Guide, but literally everything is superb. You cannot go wrong here.

Tips: The green mango prawn curry, the jackfruit moilee, the dosa taco's...

REXKL

The burgeoning KL hipster scene meet at the Rex for concerts, food from one of the vendors, a game of table-tennis, beverages of alcoholic sorts and even hidden restaurants up top behind mazes of books. It's worth a peek, and Licky Chan have a small stall here if the heat is beyond coping.

ACCHA CURRY HOUSE

Kuala Lumpur is teeming with banana leaf restaurants, and they all pretty much taste about the same. There are a few that peek their head above the multitude of clones, and Accha is the King of the Crowd. Sensational curries, vegetarian or meat, and their famous anchovy chutney. The lines can be criminal on weekends, but you'll soon forget that when you sit down and start tucking in.

LUBUK BANGKU

If you arrive after midday you'll be treated to a 100m snaking line for food. Arrive a bit earlier and stuff your tray with amazing local specialities. Special mention to the smoked beef masak lemak, the green vegetable version, the tofu and tempeh dish and the beef jerky. Everything is great so just bring a friend and fill your tray.

MENYA APPARE

If tonkotsu ramen is your poison, this is your serpent. The most legit bowl in town. Get the spicy Tonkotsu, order thicker noodles, grab some gyoza for starters and let the merriment begin.

ROUND

My one everlasting gripe with KL has been the distinct lack of good pizza. The throne has been vacant for many decades, but now finally ROUND can take its rightful place.

Great crust, good sauce/cheese. Friendly service. What more can you ask for?

THAI LUCK

Authentic Thai food can be utterly problematic to find in Kuala Lumpur, let alone Malaysia. The proximity of the countries seems to act as a barrier rather than benefit in creating a vacuum for solid, good tasting restaurants. After having sampled countless around the city, this gem of a shop in Taman Desa packs a punch and has the perfect balance of sour-sweet-salty-bitter-spicy-umami.

MADRAS LANE CURRY MEE

Be sure to find the green bowl lady, nobody else. It's hotter than hell eating in this dirty alleyway, but the food makes you forget your surroundings.

MENYA HANABI

The best mazesoba in Malaysia. Utterly bowl-lickingly good. You'll need a nap after, and don't forget to top up with rice when you're done noodling around so you can scoop up the last of the sauce.

VILLAGE PARK

Their fried chicken is legendary, and if you can get a better Nasi Lemak in town, we haven't found one yet. Full disclosure: We haven't tried very hard.

PURE SAIVA

Unquestionably the best vegetarian South Indian food you will find in KL. Vegan options alongside vegetarian, options with no onion + garlic, excellent masala dosas and sumptuous meals for lunch. You'd better get your Grab taxi to take you here if you give two hoots about food.

SHIN KEE

Despite its location smack bang in the middle of tourist plodding-town, this beef noodle shop serves up a mighty tasty bowl. Both the dry and the soup versions are great, and don't forget to add their chili paste.

KAK SOM

Kampung Baru is perhaps one of the nicest areas of KL to walk around. Low buildings, old houses, narrow streets and lots of trees. Plus you get uninterrupted views of the Petronas Towers from almost anywhere.

Food-wise, avoid the famous Wanjo for Nasi Lemak (Village Park is far better), and head to Kak Som for a true taste of how local Malays eat. Grab your plate of sticky rice and then add curries or vegetables to your hearts content. The tally will be calculated afterwards. The food here is less sweet than many places in KL, so it fits our agenda like a glove.

ONE HALF COFFEE ROASTER

For supreme coffee nerding head to this counter-style tasting room in Petaling Jaya. They have a cafe also a few kilometers away where you can eat pastries from doudoubake and sip excellent cups, but this is where the heavy weights come to discuss acidity and grind size whilst the Starbucks disciples in non-descript malls nearby ask for extra whipped cream on their calorie bombs.

TUGU VIEW CAFE

Hidden in the ASEAN Sculpture Garden, this outdoor cafe draws in hundreds of famished office workers every lunch time. The speciality here is the desirous fish head curry ladled over with rich, decadent curry gravy. Fish heads come in different sizes and prices, but there is a lot more flesh on them than you'd think.

This is truly one of the highlights of Malaysian cooking in KL.

MOLLAGAA

100% Authentic Keralan food at this wildly popular banana leaf restaurant. Everything on the menu is excellent so don't worry about what to choose.

TANDANG

Zongshan building is the home of KL's small underground scene and Tandang record store is where you go to find out the latest counter-culture news in town. They'll know of any upcoming concerts in some of the towns obscure venues.

Downstairs is Piu Piu Piu Coffee, behind lies Tommy le Baker which will fix your western bakery cravings.

IKAN PANGGANG (PORTUGUESE GRILL FISH)

A thousand tourists walk right past this stall every day on their mindless ramblings down Petaling Street, but come night you'll find a loyal gatherings of afficionado's stuffing their faces with delicious fresh fish, clams, stingray and prawns cooked either with lemongrass and butter, or our favourite: spicy sambal.

The prices are extremely agreeable, you'll eat seated at a plastic chair and table, and you'll probably not enjoy a seafood meal this much ever again.

HYDERABAD BIRYANI HOUSE

Never has paying attention meant more than now. Down this secluded off-ramp away from the hustle and bustle of Brickfields, lays one of the cities hidden gems. A man who quietly cooks the best damn biryani this side of Hyderabad, served in a simple shopfront. There are two other restaurants within 50 meters named almost the same, but this is the OG. This is the dude you want to throw your money at. This is the guy with the secret hands.

LIMAPULO: BABA CAN COOK

Opinion can be divided on this restaurant due to some locals favouring Asam Laksa over Nyonya, but the writers at The Mouth all agree that Nyonya is king. The laksa here is one of the best in town.

SHUANGXI

This speakeasy hidden up the narrow staircase offers movie lovers a chance to sip cocktails (or mocktails) under a bedecked wall of Wong-Kar Wai classics. The bartenders are cinephiles too and love nothing better than a quick chat about Fruit Chan.

RESTORAN SUPER KITCHEN

If you're going to try Chili Pan Mee in KL, go here. The tourist crowds go to Kin Kin which is also excellent, and if you do go there the chili paste is nuclear!

CHAMELEON BEANCURD RESTAURANT

Vegetarian food of this quality needs to be worshipped and adored. Chameleon Beancurd not only churns out sumptuous "mock-meat" versions of popular dishes, but does so in a remarkably clean and jovial location. If you're a vegetarian, vegan or vegetable-curious, make a bee-line for this restaurant immediately.

Their Asam Pedas "Fish" dish is fire!

HOLIAO NOODLES

Lunchtimes here are a frenzied mix of deep slurping and sweating simultaneously. It is an oven in this tin shed, but the noodles they prepare are worth your sauna-lunch. Get the spinach noodles to fool yourself into believing you're healthy.

SUP AL-DEEN

A city like KL enjoys the luxury of multiple rainy days per year. When such a situation arises on your vacation, take heed of the clouds and pop yourself down at a chair inside this achingly beautiful old space. Order the Sup Daging (Lamb Soup), some white bread to dip in it, and sit back and allow yourself a moment of recollection. The soup is fatty, hearty and spiced to perfection. There are not many places like this left in the world, so take the chance to go there while you still can.

VALENTINE ROTI

Despite having a huge wobble for a few years during Covid, Valentine Roti is back at full strength serving up the best Roti Canai in town!

DANJIN DUMPLINGS

Secret dumplings behind a burnt-out bus shelter in Pudu? Really?

Truth. A smiling lady keeps a horde of hungry customers happy by cooking and serving bowl after bowl of delicious noodles and dumplings under the intolerably hot Malaysian sun. Everything is good here, if you can stand the heat (sun, not chilli).

BRICKFIELDS PISANG GORENG

This local legend sources sweeter bananas (Pisang Raja) than his competitors, so the price is slightly inflated, but the taste is far superior to anyone else. A bonafide "MUST TRY", if you're wandering through Brickfields or Sentral.

AMCORP MALL

Sundays are second-hand-stall day inside Amcorp Mall. Head up to the various floors and find something useless to blow pennies on. Definitely worth a trip, where you'll see vinyl hunters standing next to nerds looking for comics.

SENI SATTUSORRI

Another restaurant to tempt the tolerance levels of any humidity expert, Seni Sattusorri is an absolutel favourite for their delicious claypot rice served straight from the flame to your table. You really shouldn't miss this if you're staying a few days in KL.

He has recently expanded (not his waistline), and opened a few branches, but we always go back to the OG spot with the most humidity, and authentic flavours.

OLD CHINA CAFE

Fighting for the title of "Best Nyonya Laksa" in town, the Old China Cafe offers punters a decidely calmed interior than it's competitor Limapulo. Both are great, just decide which one to visit based on where in town you happen to be.

KHAN JEE

Local Pakistani populations crowd Khan Jee and Pak Punjab, huddled around tables encased in BBQ smoke. Whilst it's almost impossible to seperate the two, the kebabs at Pak have the upper hand, but the curries and tandoori roti are better at Khan, in our opinion.

Whichever you choose, you'll leave feeling like you swallowed a jumbo jet, but with a smile on your face.

MA MAISON EBISU

Staying with the Japanese cuisine wave, perched a top a shopping mall in Bukit Bintang is this excellent Tonkatsu restaurant. The pork meat is divinely juicy whilst the panko crust is tooth-shatteringly crispy. All the correct accompaniments follow along to make your meal a sensationally pleasant one.

LICKY CHAN & THE POKE GUY

One way to fight the heat is to freeze your insides, and what better way than to track down this peculiar shop that seems to attract more camera's than customers, but nevertheless. Their ice-creams range from boozy to alco-free, and are curiously flavoured and set to cool you down a notch.

SEK YUEN

Kuala Lumpur is heaving with old skool Chinese restaurants that are seemingly always packed. Sek Yuen is no different, but for our tastes its the best of its kind in town.

VINH CITY

On the third floor of Sungei Wang plaza lies KL's best Vietnamese restaurant, hidden almost at a dead end. Locals in the know come here to load up on Pho, Banh Mi and all sorts of Vietnamese treats due to the great food and low prices.

DHARMA REALM SAGELY MONASTERY

Not every local knows about this vegan canteen tucked behind a temple in central KL, but it's one of our absolute favourite places to take friends who don't partake of the animal kind. Huge swathes of delicious, healthy food, a roof to protect you from the sun, and a strict policy of "Only take what you can eat, no waste", means you know your money is going to a good cause.

IMBI MARKET

There's a lot to get excited about in this monstrosity of a foodcourt. Minus points for the lack of Air Conditioning, but plus points for the sheer diversity and choices available to the average punter. You could happily eat here every day for a month and barely scratch the surface. Some of the places we frequent are the stall in the photo (grab a bowl of the prawn soup) and the lady selling the rabidly popular Kuih (a savory/sweet rice, yam and sweet potato mash-up that is oddly satisfying), at the IMBI KUIH BAKUL stall. Expect to wait in line.

You'll sweat your guts out, but the food is worth the sauna.

ZAINI SATAY

A slight trek out of the main realms of the octopus that is KL, the locals flock here to try the delicious satay. Whilst we haven't had better satay in KL, the sambal is slightly too sweet, however the stall next door sells a killer plate of Rojak worth upgrading your snack to a meal for.

SANGEETHA

When the urge to shove a large, crispy, flavourful dosa into your face becomes too difficult to ignore, then head to Sangeetha and temper your shakes. The branch on Leboh Ampang used to be the superior of the two, but things have changed.

HALAB

Middle Eastern food doesn't come much better than Halab in KL. Don't mistake it for the Halab Express, as they are owned by the same company but the food quality differs. Head to the one opposite Nasi Kahwin, order some meze and a lamb makhlouba. It's enough for two to share and it's dynamite.

Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.