CITY GUIDES

BY THE MOUTH

A common theme for The Mouth is hunting down the best shimmering bowls of Pho in each city we come across. Sure, the best bowls are almost always in Vietnam, but we have been privy to some mighty fine offerings in yonder pastures. From rather spectacular bowls at a market in Odesa-Ukraine, to world class Pho at a sushi restaurant in Oslo. 


Now, back to the nitty-gritty. Hanoi is a city swallowed by tourist throngs most of the year, and it can become quite difficult to siphen through all the tacky blogs and influencer pages dedicated to fooling you into mediocre Pho establishments. A part of the infamy of creating such lists, is that we too have to suffer the indignation of terrible bowls in the noble pursuit of making sure your vacation goes off without a hitch.

Yes, places change, chefs get fired or find new hunting grounds, recipes are traded and changed, and a neighbourhood joint that was the talk of the town suddenly becomes a barren wasteland. We cannot control the marching feet of time, but we can try to update you as regularly as possible to keep your options fresh.


Below are the Pho spots that we found most appropriate for seating your derriere and parting your hard-earned dong into the willing hands of a smiling vendor. 


A bowl of beef pho from Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi.

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PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN

When chefs recommend places, The Mouth listens. This was spoken of in reverential tones by multiple food fiddlers, and they were not wrong. Salty, addictive broth, in a small shopfront packed with locals. Those of weak repose may find the hanging brisket off-putting, but we suggest you pull up your socks and get stuck in.

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A bowl of Pho at Bo 8 Hang Da in Hanoi

PHO BO 8 HANG DA

Within minutes of opening, this Pho shed will be packed with locals. Be sure you hang around outside for them to start waving people in and get ready for some epic dipping action. This Pho is as authentic as you'll find in Hanoi.

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Sign of Pho at Pho Duong Tau in Hanoi

PHO DUONG TAU

Despite its proximity to a popular tourist walking-street, these old ladies serve up a salty and infectious bowl of goodness. To the delicate palate this might seem like diving into a salt mine and choking on crystals, but pho in Hanoi tends to veer red on the saline radar, so if that's not your cup of choice, steer clear.


For us its our quintessential plastic stool & low table spot in Hanoi.

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A bowl of beef pho at Pho Thin in Hanoi

PHO THIN

Different from the other places in Hanoi, in that they actually stir-fry their beef before, Pho Thin is definitely worth a visit if you are crushing a few bowls in town. There is something charming about being packed into a long table and slurping away next to strangers.

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A bowl of chicken pho in Hanoi

PHO GHA NGUYET

Chicken Pho for the soul is sold at this ramshackle storefront. Expect low tables full of noodle splatter, and smiling locals having a feed. They won't win any awards in the hygiene department, but we fawned at their fabulous facade a few times and never got sick. KNOCK ON WOOD!

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Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.



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