Covid knocked hundreds of thousands of businesses on their backs, none more evident than in the heavily touristed streets of Penang. With a sudden dearth of customers for almost three years, the vendors of Georgetown had to come up with survival strategies to not go under.

Some of them decided to hike prices, then dropped them again after wild protests. Others decided the plan of action was to serve smaller portions for the same price, this didn't go down too well either but was the lesser of the evils. Some still cut corners on produce, opting to buy cheaper oil, coconut milk etc, something that literally caused demonstrations in the street.

By hook or crook, they managed to push through the deriliction of lockdown, and bounced back. Sadly, the bounce was more of a hop and not a Sergey Bubka pole vault session. The Mouth's editor has been visting these shores for over 20 years. He witnessed the glory days, and then subsequent hours of deep lack, pacing the streets after having tasted a mediocre meal from an all-time favourite.

Thankfully, after the disappointing eats last year (2022), the scene has started to bounce back. Noticeably, more new shops have opened, lines are forming at the old legendary stalls, and there is a feeling of optimism brewing. Not only did we return once again to right the wrongs, but we decided to expand the net and take in some outlying gems.

With some expert help from a couple of local sources and some International men of mystery, the guide is now starting to resemble something worth sharing.

For a full link of all the places on google maps, click the icon below:

WENG KEI WANTON MEE

You won't find better cantonese style noodles in town, and the mixed pork plate takes it to the next level. There is almost never anyone at this place (Thanks Nathan for the heads up), and it definitely must be because nobody knows it. The food is absolute fire!

JIN CAFE CHAR KUEY TEOW

One hundred meters from the ultra-famous "New Siam Road", which used to be our favourite until the father relinquished duties to his son, this old school spot serves up one of the best CKT in town. Not only are the vibes exactly what you'd expect, but the 60+ year old cook is a veritable bundle of smiles.

Arguments will rage about if the CKT should be drier or greasier, but remember the old adage: Fat = Flavour. We're sticking with that, Ah Leng can be the choice for those watching their waistlines.

Many thanks to the legend Peter Yeoh for this tip! 

NEW LIFE CURRY MEE

Shout out to the venerable Bad Boy Ben at Caffeine Cartel for tipping us on this spot. Georgetowns best Curry Mee?

Quite possibly.

GOH THEW CHIK

Legit old skool chicken rice that never seems to suffer from inconsistency. The way to go here is definitely to order the roast chicken with the darker skin, as opposed to the steamed version.

SAI RAM 

Thanks again to Peter Yeoh, this little Apom stand has been churning out phenomenal bites for 30 years at its current location. You won't meet friendlier owners in all of Penang, and be sure to say hi to the old tea man at the food court next to it.

It's worth getting the sweet and the savoury one with egg. Both are delicious.

THE GARDEN BANANA LEAF

Hidden amongst the trees behind a car park, you'll find some of Penangs most authentic south Indian vegetarian food at this outdoor restaurant. Portions are packed with flavour and kind on the wallet.

PULAU TIKUS

One of the quintessential stops on your Georgetown discoveries, most of the stalls open around 5pm and shut before 10. Our tips for some delectable bites are to visit the old man making the only Pork satay sticks (his stall funnily enough says BURGERS HOTDOGS SATAY), and a bowl of addictive Kuey Teow Thng with duck meat at Low Kei (the stall with red and yellow signboard and a heavily tattooed chef).

Just use your nose, sniff around, and plant yourself at a table and order. You'll be fine.

KOKOKAY

Legit old skool chicken rice at this oddly located food court in Tanjung Tokong. Be early, because the word is out and the lines are extreme.

If you're feeling unsatisfied after a plate and want to further your digestive faculties, head to the Vegan Curry Mee spot mentioned further down for a bowl.

TOK TOK MEE

Bouncier than an episode of Baywatch, this handmade noodle shop serves delicious bowls of noodles, wontons, pork and all things gluttinous. Be sure to try their pandan kueh pastry bites.

UNCLE LOKE VEGAN CURRY MEE

Just when you thought you found a dish that a vegan chef couldn't possibly make a version of, you're slapped in the face by a bowl of curry mee that potentially sits atop the throne of "Best In Town", regardless of the category. Situated in a random food hall in Tanjung Tokong (Don't ask how we find these places), this wildly popular shop is constantly full until the last drops of broth have been drained from the large pots.

100% worth hitting regardless of your diet.

BATU LANCHANG

Considerably away from the tourist trap of downtown Georgetown, the locals flock here like prodigal sheep every lunchtime to enjoy their favourite trappings in the large food court. The longest lines seem to always be by the Barakath Nasi Kandar and the soupy Popiah stall, but there are plenty of options for every opinion.

AH BOY KOAY TEOW

Dank bowls of soup in a little alleyway. There used to be a superb spot on Chulia 15 years ago, but it disappeared. This is the best we've found since.

PENANG ROAD FAMOUS LAKSA

All hail the deep funk. If you can handle anchovy, mackerel, fishy fishiness, then hop on over to Penang Road Famous Laksa, smile at the old lady and order a bowl. The first few sips can be a bit jarring, but by the end of the bowl you'll be wondering if you can smash another.

PASSIONS OF KERALA

Penang is a mecca for banana leaf places, but Passions of Kerala costs a bit more, but delivers on all fronts. Everything is freshly cooked, good quality and bursting with flavour.

Their lamb curry is a must-order.

ZEN XIN

Vegetarian food of the highest order. Fiery, fresh, crispy, crunchy. What more can you want from a meatless meal.

SUP HAMEED

Longstanding spot for deep, fatty soups served from gigantic stainless steel pots. Order the Lamb Soup, grab a few slices. of white bread and dip and sip your way to a smile.

p.s. Another spot that rumours have reached us is struggling with consistency post-covid, so be wary.

HIN BUS DEPOT

Sunday art-fare market and curiosities spread around some crumbling architecture and decent restaurants.

THE CAFFEINE CARTEL

This sleek coffee shop / eatery specialises in a delicious version of the famous Tom Yum Mama soup so loved across the border. The coffee is Vietnamese style, they have teas and sodas and anything else you need to take respite from the furnace outside.

HEMA HEMA

After you've smashed a bowl of Mama Tom Yum at Caffeine Cartel, pop in to Hema Hema and try one of their superb ice-creams to cool off. For once the viral crowd are right, this is great stuff!

LINE CLEAR

Georgetown has hundreds of Nasi Kandar, and each one offers an aspect that they manage to nail better than most. Nasi Kandar Line Clear surfs the crest of doing everything pretty damn well.

Their fried chicken is definitely worth getting greasy fingers over.

HANG CHOW

Not many of these old skool cafe's are still around in Penang. Most of the tribal modernists have turned them into boutique hotels, or other monstrosities. Places like this deserve a few moments repose over a cup of milk tea or bad coffee, just to kick off the noise from outside and look around at the effects of time on paint, furniture and faces. A true remnant of things past.

MINI SIAM

Not all addictions carry the cloak of shame, or at least, differing severities. Needing to sit in a corner alone and ponder life over a bowl of Thai food is an affliction we rousingly encourage. Despite a deep lack of authentic Thai food in Penang, one place you can rely on is this charming little restaurant on the second floor above a Thai grocery store.

Again, a shoutout to both Ben & Peter who both frequent this little gem.

JING SI BOOKSTORE

More modern than Hang Chow, but delightful for different reasons. Jing Si is an oasis of calm in the downtown area of Georgetown. Kick off your shoes (no really, they'll make you), head over to peruse the Buddhist books, or find a corner and order a delicious cold tea and listen to the sound of silence.

ANNALAKSHMI TEMPLE OF FINE ARTS

As with their branch in Brickfields, KL, Annalakshmi offers spectacular vegetarian buffet-style lunches for a slightly higher price than your standard banana leaf vendor. After sampling most of the banana leaf places in town, its definitely worth the splurge.

JUNK CAFE

Not only do they serve the best burger in Malaysia, but the music is great and the vibes are just what you need for an evening socialising in Georgetown.

EMILY DARLING CAFE

To satiate even the most ravenous sweet-tooth, enter an oasis of calm and greenery and be transported away from the traffic outside.

HOT BOWL WHITE CURRY MEE

This soup is nothing without lashings of their spicy homemade chilli sauce. The thing to do here is order a bowl, but don't forget to order a plate of steamed chicken too. It's fire!

HASSAN BIRYANI HOUSE

Kapitan used to be the king in town for Tandoori, but Hassan just does a better job. The curries here are not amazing, and the nan is the super thick doughy type, so our recommendation is to ask for a tandoori roti instead.

OO WHITE COFFEE

There are a few branches of this White Coffee house scattered around Georgetown, but in our opinion this one is worth hitting. All the dishes are a solid representation of what they should be. Nothing is amazing but everything is above average.

PROTESTANT & JEWISH CEMETERY

If Atlas Obscura is your favourite website, then head here for a face-to-face with headstones and crawling nature. Despite being close to the most frenzied areas of Penang, this cemetery retains a beautiful stillness that encourages reflection.

The Jewish cemetery is smaller and further out of downtown (combine it with a trip to New Siam Road Char Kuey Teow, for example), but also holds enough interest for a few minutes of silent rambling.

TIGER CHAR KEUY TEOW

If the thought of waiting 2 hours for a plate of Char Kuey Teow seems unreasonable to you, then this is the best place for it in the vicinity of Chulia.

THE ALLEY

For a cup of coffee from people that know how to make one, head here.

RUAS RECORD STORE

For your taste of a little underground danger, and the occasional live-show head to Ruas and rifle through the stacks of vinyl.

CHETTIARS TIFFIN CAFE

Masala dosas are all about the crunch to white flesh ratio, and of course the sambar. It has to have that tamarind punch and a deep salty umami. Chettiars nails this on all aspects, and trust us, we tried about 20 in town.

MENYA MIYABI

Anyone who has paid attention to The Mouth, knows our raucous worship of all things ramen. If you happen to be experiencing deep cravings while in Georgetown, head over here for a decent version of the Japanese staple.

Yes, it is salty. Deal with it....

p.s. Under NO circumstances should you go to Kanada-Ya.

LEPETITFOUR

Pastries that take you back to a sidestreet in Paris, if you ignore the intolerable heat outside the large windows. Pull up a stool, order a flat white and a croissant or savoury treat and allow your mind to wander.

P.s. Thanks to Peter from Michelin Guide for the recommendation!

Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.