Prachuap Khiri Khan is a strange place that time forgot. People drive their scooters far slower than necessary, the wind blows constantly keeping the climate perfect for European skin, the beaches are slightly outside the city centre which means you avoid seeing obese pink germans in speedo’s whilst sipping your morning brew, the food scene is plump with options, the nightlife includes a narrow strip of shops by the concrete seaface wall that sell tall brown bottles of Leo for under 100 baht, where people can either sit under the tin roof and stare at the abyss, or cross the road and sit on the wall listening to the waves crashing.

A ten minute ride south, after signing into the book for the military to know your whereabouts is the wonderful Ao Manao beach, where seclusion can be yours under one of the many trees. A ten minute drive north and you’ll discover cafes tucked beside lagoons, bowls of tremendously fresh crab meat piled on noodles and village life.

It is a town where nothing happens, the train station itself is a monument to time gone by, and the atmosphere is conducive to those that think mass tourism is a bad word and prefer a slow paced kind of ennui.

Highly unlikely to ever be the new "It" spot, and therefore even more likely to remain one of our favourites, this small seaside town south of Hua Hin has everything a jaded pilgrim requires. If you're looking for hedonism and piss-ups, then you might want to avoid Prachuap as the locals and ex-pats who have made it their home don't want you either. Come for a relaxing few days spent walking the windy streets, looking at street-art, eating good food and riding your bicycle or scooter to Ao Manao beach during the afternoon.

There is a lot to love in the town that time forgot, especially if hanging around in coffee shops (of which there are many good ones) and reading a book are some of lifes pleasures in your rolodex.

CLICK MAP ICON FOR ALL LOCATIONS

Locals descend on this shabby looking stall for their famous dry noodle with mantis shrimp and crab. Prices are incredibly cheap, the menu is in thai and the staff don't speak any english, but show them the photo below to order this dish. Give it a good mix, ask for them to hold the sugar, add some lime, chilli, vinegar and you're set for a taste sensation!

KRUA HUA BAN

Come for the tom yum (locals order the tuna version), splash out on a thai omelette on the side. Happy days.

MA-PROW

Harder on the wallet, but punching high with flavour, this is a great restaurant dealing in both western and thai dishes, but the thai ones are the star.

TALAY RAP LOM

You won't find fresher or more delicious seafood than here. Come a bit before 7pm in the evening if you want to guarantee a table, it gets rowdy.

Where all the locals go for lunch, so be prepared to wait for a while. Special mentions to the Phad See Ew and Phad Kha Prow.

Prachuaps most famous Phad Thai stall, cooking up great piles on a sizzling flat-top. Portions are gigantic and the seasoning is bang on!

FUJISAN

Bonafide Japanese food set in a small room where if you closed your eyes you could be in Osaka. Ask for the daily specials, and trust the chef to put a smile on your face.

RMA BEACH CAFE

Not the most lavishly furnished cafe on earth, but with views like this who cares. The proprieter from Bangkok is a coffee freak and serves the best cup in town.

COME HOME

Take a long look at all the vintage cameras on the wall, then order from their bible of a menu, and enjoy some tourist-friendly Thai fare.

REST & ROLL

Our vote for the second tastiest cup of coffee in town, although they face some stiff competition.

AO MANAO BEACH

A short scooter ride, or a long walk, from downtown, this beautiful beach provides anyone with an opportunity to find their own private spot. Lined with trees offering shade, and almost empty during the weekdays, this is where you bring a book and just relax for the whole day. Behind, by the road are some stores to buy water and snacks.

Before entering you have to pass through the military base, and sign in your name in the book to be allowed in.

SUDA

The downstairs is perfect for people watching, upstairs has a quiet room if you bring a laptop, the coffee is decent and the service is friendly.

The best Gai Yang in town (grilled chicken) is served at this stall with some tables around the side. Their somtum is a bit too sweet for us so next time we'll ask them to cut the sugar by 99%.

VINTAGE STORE

Find some forgotten diamonds in this ramshackle store run by the friendliest owner on earth.

p.s. The map link may be incorrect but its very close to it at least.

SUBJECT

Not so much for the coffee, but come for a seat in the shade looking out at the ocean.

Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.