Florence: A city torn apart by the descending herds of tourists eager for some history and tequila blackouts before their 21st birthday. Narrow streets and alleys bullied into submission by hordes of flag wielding vacationers on the way to buy a crap sandwich at All Antico Vinaio. No, the Florence we love is laid back in the outer streets, the peripheries of the spider web. From Saint Ambroggio to Santo Spirito, therein lie some treasures that evade the detection of most holidayers.

As the sun turns and bathes the valley in luminescent splendour, and you slowly descend through the rose garden under the viewpoint at Piazza Michelangelo, take a few moments to pause and appreciate the magnitude of a city that has given so much. And as that moment of self reflection, dissipates into the slim fog above the river, focus your breathing on your stomach region, and try to decipher its call to prayer. Which dish shall you grant it tonight?

Within these chapters shall leak a substantial amount of information on where to eat, drink coffee and explore this marvellous city. Included for those who do not stick to carb-only diets are some options for vegans and adventurous eaters. The Mouth spent weeks in Florence under stict guidance of local eaters, being pushed and pressed into local establishments to sample the fare.

What tips are shared are done so with generous spirit and knowing that we enjoyed them when we visited. Things can change, but don't shoot the messenger.

CLICK ICON ABOVE FOR ALL LOCATIONS

ANTICO RISTORO DI CAMBI

Vegans look away, but one of the main reason tourists come to Florence is to eat the famous Bistecca Fiorentina. There is no better place to tackle the 900gram beast than at this establishment, a few whiskers away from the worst of the tourist tramplings.

The steak comes rare, you don't have an option, order some side vegetables to assuage the guilt and just accept the fact that tonight you're going to be a little fatty and enjoy every damn minute of it.

SEMEL STREET FOOD

The name "Street Food" normally gets my goat, but when the shop is a tiny sandwich parlour opposite the Saint Ambroggio market, and the proprieter is one of the cheeriest buggers on earth, and his sandwiches are just exemplary examples of meticulously crafted edibles, then you tip your hat and shut up.

CIBLEO

Don't make the mistake of asking why its named Cibleo, but do order their sensational Japanese dishes. Outstanding flavours and service. A true gem.

MY SUGAR

Award winning ice-cream churned by a couple who love to experiment with odd ingredients and flavour combinations. Our favourites were their spectacular Pistacchio, the Chocolate Fondant and the Black Sesame.

I FRATELLINI

For heavens sake ignore the throngs of American tourists lining up for hours for a super mediocre sandwich from "All Antico Vinaio", and head a few blocks further to hit this place. FAR better schiacciatta and much friendlier service. 

LE MURATE

Set in the compound of an old jail, this bar-venue-cafe acts as a bastion of underground culture and rebellion in the high-brow intellectual wastelands.

CIBREO CAFFE

The decadent embrace of a perfectly cooked Tagliolino with butter and cheese. Nothing more, nothing less.

TRATTORIA I'RADDI

You won't find a more authentic or homely trattoria in all of Florence. The food is simple and delicious.

SBRINO

Another worthy Gelato place near Santo Spirito.

DA QUE' GANZI

A true Florence restaurant scene legend, and rightly so. You can't go wrong bringing a group of people here and ordering half the menu.

LA CITE

The social bookworm place to be in Florence. Expect some loud gasps of tourist excitement, but all in all a cosy cafe/bar to spend some rainy afternoons reading a book and sipping something delicious.

ENGLISH CEMETERY

If websites like Atlas Obscura are your bag, then you'll love an afternoon walk around this small cemetery as much as we did.

IMPRESSIONE CHONGQUING

Rarely has Szechuan food outside of Asia tasted this ravenously good. Special mention to the pork belly, and the aubergine dish in oil.

P.s. They have a branch in Milan if you happen to head that way and have sorrowful longings.

RIVARNO CAFE

The moment the sun comes out, the wall along the side of Rivarno gets instantly crowded with sunbathers. It's the perfect places to have a coffee in the afternoon rays if you can grab a table.

BRAC

Bookstore / Vegan cafe, there is something for any intrepid bookworm at this fantastic store. The food in the cafe is excellent and they do mixed plates for lunch so sharing is effortless.

RAVIOLI DI CRISTINA

The twin-city of Prato, a 20 minute train ride from Florence, has one of the largest Chinese population in Europe. Walking down the streets you'd be convinced you were in Shanghai or Beijing.

Needless to say, the food scene there is spectacular.

SANTO SPIRITO

With farmers markets on the weekends and cafes during the week, and slightly less of the tourist crowd, this is one of the best neighborhoods in Florence to just relax in.

SANTO FALAFEL

Excellent middle-eastern food you can grab and go sit in the square and eat in the sun. Check out their roasted cauliflower, salad bowls and meze plates. Everything is freshly prepared and delicious.

DA NERBONE

Florence will shower you in love if tripes your thing. And of every little tripe store in town, you have to walk into this one. The lines are long and anyone travelling with you who doesn't like the taste of innards and dodgy bits can just go upstairs to the huge food market and choose something less funky.

ANTICA SOSTA

The perfect place to have a sciacchiatta sandwich and a cup of coffee in the morning looking out at the Cappelle Medicee. These sandwiches are some of the best in town and the tables out front are in hot demand.

IL CONVENTINO

Artistic vibes and hipsters on laptops congregate here to escape the inevitable tourist crush.

SERGIO GOZZI

If this place were any more old skool the walls would collapse. Try your classic dishes here and concentrate more on the aesthetics than the food. It's an experience, not the best food in town, but one of the best rooms in town for sure.

CROWN OF INDIA

We usually save the best for last and The Mouth's addiction to Indian food is all too evident if you pay any attention at all. Crown of India serves blissfully authentic Indian food to a discerning group of locals and expats.

Food is forever evolving, and sometimes it devolves. Owners change, locations change, chefs change. We can only assure you that when we visited, we liked it.